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Although new names at Chanel and Dior created plenty of noise during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the debut from the fashion house that utterly dominated the public's attention. The event featured a unexpected guest: Meghan Markle, making her initial European outing in three years.

That Saturday night in Paris, the razzle-dazzle of Chanel, Dior – along with Lauren Sanchez – were all outshone with the overwhelming presence of the Balenciaga show.

The Duchess added an extra layer of glamour and excitement to Balenciaga’s Paris show.

Before this development, the prevailing sentiment surrounding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut had been rather peaceful. Balenciaga is a time-honored label, and Piccioli is globally acclaimed as a top-tier talent. Moreover, he is beloved for his image of the most congenial figure in the industry. Many assumed that dramatic fashion statements had left the brand's identity with the exit of the edgy designer Demna to another luxury house. Yet, sometimes the most gentle individuals spring a few shocks, and the appearance of royalty significantly amplified the media frenzy.

He sees himself as an master builder, building shapes that avoid direct contact with the wearer's physique.

Notably, the main idea of what he called his manifesto, as he explained it after the show, was female emancipation. His primary reference was the revolutionary 1957 design by Balenciaga, a silhouette that sits proud of the body, avoiding emphasis on nor limiting a female form. He stated that this look was a powerful manifestation of a changing spirit of the times that was beginning to move from the conservative norms of the 1950s towards the more free-spirited era. “It was about progress for women. It freed women from the burden of garments that sit on their body and talk about their body. That garment gave women the chance to move freely.”

Some of the house's famous designs were featured in the runway, such as this ‘cocoon’ coat.

Apparel with independent structure are central to the identity of Balenciaga. The designer equated this creative process to being an master builder: constructing shapes that avoid direct interaction with the body, while constantly considering the individuals who will occupy these creations. The original designer was deeply interested in the human form and with textiles, and with a third element – the space in between.”

The opening look was a modern reinterpretation of the sack dress, lengthened to an longline silhouette, paired with opera gloves – but also with wraparound bug-eye sunglasses that acted as a clear homage to the apocalypse-chic of the previous designer's tenure.

The designer, who at 58 sports ornamental accessories and projects an calm, bohemian vibe, is not interested in seeing the industry as a competitive fight. He believes that it is more admirable for designers to respect each other’s abilities. He noted that he was aiming for a harmonious balance between the traditional craftsmanship of the house, and its more modern casual influences. Classic designs from the house were showcased in the show: a ‘cocoon’ coat, this time in a bold green hue, and a A-line dress in a dramatic violent purple.

The phenomenon of French-girl chic has become a highly profitable trend. Michael Rider is an transatlantic figure, but he speaks this fashion language fluently. The designer previously worked with a fashion icon during her period as creative director, and then worked for several years building Polo Ralph Lauren into a symbol of approachable fashion. Currently leading Céline, he is bringing the democratic approach of American style to Parisian style. He presented timeless coats, straw baskets, and luxury fabrics draped on handbags – all the motifs of the local style – designed with cheerful tones, with an upbeat American tone. “Céline isn’t a mean brand, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” he commented after the show. The goal is for everyone feels desirable in Celine. When you wear this brand, you may not have the wildest design, but you have the finest outerwear, and you have the confidence to wear it.”